Walking Manhattan From Top to Bottom
The David N. Dinkins Manhattan Municipal Building, designed by McKim, Mead & White, completed in 1914.
In April 2025, my friend's mom and I coincidentally had separate surgeries scheduled during the same week, several states apart. Hers was much more serious and complicated than mine, and they unfortunately had drastically different outcomes. My friend's mom never made it out of surgery.
Before she died, she professed optimism that the procedure would help her walk long distances again, something she hadn't been able to do for years. In her honor, my friend committed to walking for her, and on Memorial Day she recruited a group of us to walk from the top of Manhattan to the bottom (about 13 miles as the crow flies) in memory of her mother.
My surgery was to repair a torn labrum in my left hip joint. It was supposed to be a relatively simple procedure, but when I woke up, I was told by my surgeon that my piece of tissue was "mutilated." I had agreed to an easy, arthroscopic repair but awoke from a gnarly reconstruction. I had lost some bone (shaved down to prevent further impingement) and gained several metal clips, an unwieldy brace, and a new-to-me tissue graft. When I asked where the graft came from, I was told it was from a cadaver.
It took months for me to learn how to walk properly again, but I have been grateful every (baby) step of my longer-than-expected recoverythat someone (or their family) gave me this incredible gift from beyond the grave. The donation may have been small and anonymous, but the tiny piece of tissue is truly a gift that will keep on giving, helping me walk for the rest of my life (or at least until, or if, I need a full hip replacement).
I have always loved walking long distances especially in New York, a hobby that has quite obviously contributed to the wear and tear on my joints. But I had never done a walk like this and always wanted to. Just a little more than a year after my surgery, I was still nervous about my ability to keep up and/or complete such a trek—but committed to trying my best. In the interest of saving a few hundred steps, and because I now live so close to the northern edge of Manhattan and routinely run errands in Inwood, I opted to join the group when they reached my neighborhood.
In the end, I surprised myself by not only making it the entire way—from W 184th and Broadway to Battery Park—but also by how good I felt doing so. I took ibuprofen every few hours, made sure to stay hydrated, and stretched when I could. But I mostly felt better walking 33,000+ steps than I normally do walking just a fraction of that in my every day life.
Maybe it was the mission, or the company, or the perfect weather, or the holiday, or the adrenaline that comes from doing something that once felt completely out of reach. Or maybe it was just the magic and novelty of traversing Manhattan from top to bottom all at once, going through diverse and disparate neighborhoods such as Washington Heights, Harlem, the Upper West Side, Midtown, Flatiron, Soho, Little Italy, Chinatown, and Lower Manhattan in less than 12 hours (with breaks for lunch, snacks, dinner, and celebratory Manhattans at Fraunces Tavern, the city's oldest bar).
Below is a map of our route followed by some of the highlights.
Washington Heights to Harlem
Built in 1930 as one of five Loew's Wonder Theatres, the United Palace at Broadway and West 175th is now both a house of worship and a cultural center (my friend’s college graduation was held here).
Real person or mannequin?
I have not eaten here, but the fusion of Latin and Chinese cuisine feels very New York to me.
The former Audubon Ballroom, site of Malcolm X's 1965 assassination, now home to a Chase Bank and a Dallas BBQ.
Neon on neon on neon.
The stretch of Broadway and the West 150s is home to several bird murals, an homage to former resident John James Audubon, who is buried in the western half of Trinity Church Cemetery and Mausoleum.
Beets!
Morningside Heights to Central Park
The 1 train runs above ground for a stretch in Harlem.
Liquor? I hardly know her!
Memorial Day was a good day to do this walk because the UWS was deserted.
Tom's was famous even before it's exterior was used in establishing shots for Seinfeld, as the inspiration for the 1980's Suzanne Vega song "Tom's Diner."
I’m not religious but soaring houses of worship like the Cathedral of St. John the Divine almost make me believe in a higher power.
Sturgeon? No thanks. Classic signage and legacy New York small businesses? Yes please.
It rained nonstop for the two days preceding Memorial Day and all the greens showed up in Central Park.
I love all manhole covers across the city but these Parks Department ones are particularly nice.
I hope these super talls snap in half one day (injuring no one except the billionaires who choose to park their money in them).
Midtown to Soho
Fun fact: this little corner slice out of Macy’s (now a Sunglass Hut) survives due to a notorious feud and several bidding wars.
I love this small slice of Midtown in the midst of towering giants like…
The Empire State Building.
The Flatiron Building recently underwent conversion into condos and the scaffolding is slowly coming down.
Sorry to Trump’s proposed D.C. arch, but we already have a perfect one in Washington Square Park.
We love a democratic socialist mayor!
The best way to enjoy Soho is to ignore the throngs and look up.
Little Italy to City Hall
I would attempt to eat cannoli this large.
America!
I love a decorative light post.
“The true administration of justice is the firmest pillar of good government.”
RATZ
City Hall, home to the offices of our current democratic socialist mayor.
What do you think New York’s craziest mayor placed in his time capsule?
The Woolworth Building to Battery Park
The Woolworth Building has also been converted into condos.
One World Trade Center peaking out behind St. Paul’s Chapel.
I wore the wrong shoes (they were old) but nevertheless I persisted.
Trinity Church as seen in National Treasure.
Amen.
We made it!
The St. Elizabeth Ann Seton Shrine is such a beautiful contrast to the skyscrapers near Battery Park.
The oldest restaurant in New York City and an excellent place for scotch eggs and celebratory Manhattans.